The 25th edition of PAD design fair is on in Paris until April 2, and this year, there are plenty of art jewels to see. Amongst the 20 first-time exhibitors, is Mazarin, a new Paris-based jewelry house focusing on using 21st century materials to continue a long tradition of adornment, alongside established international jewelry galleries like Carpenters Workshop Gallery (New York and London) and vintage specialists like Karry Berreby (Paris) and Bernard Bouisset (Béziers).
Arina Pouzoullic of Galerie Second Pétale, is showing a coherent roster of jewelry artists representing a breadth of styles. Pouzoullic, who debuted Second Pétal at PAD last year, is excited about the artists using more unusual materialsr: “for a curator, it’s particularly exciting to witness the emergence of new creativity. Creativity that is not afraid to experiment, or to break with the norm”.
See eleven jewelry artists, who are worth a trip to Paris this weekend.
For Carpenter’s Workshop Jewelry, French-Lebanese jeweler Walid Akkad has created a bestiary of 21 highly stylized animal rings, drawing on wide-ranging cultural references from La Fontaine’s fables to the Zodiac. Neither naturalistic nor twee, he has taken a single characteristic of each to sculpt a minimalist representation in highly polished rose gold, creating a collection that is true to his sculptural style, in which the body plays a role in its own adornment.
Carpenter’s Workshop Jewelry
Characterized by highly unusual, exquisitely engineered jewelry, Salima Thakker thrives on the unexpected results that come out of free design. Her language focuses on color, shape, audacity and the element of surprise that forges a strong identity. The Modular bracelet is a latticework of tiny golden tubes lined with patinated silver and set with 156 citrines; it’s the piece which first caught Pouzillic’s eye when she selected it for Christie’s Jewellery Talents of Today.
A newcomer to PAD Paris this year, Mazarin is helmed by jewelry historians and gemologists Louise de Rothschild and Keagan Ramsamy, who wanted to create a brand that would contribute to the history of jewelry. The result is Mazarin, named after the French Cardinal and his storied collection of diamonds, an historic name for a jewelry house taking a modern approach to production by using recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds only for their French-made jewels. The elegant collection, featuring this spectacular elephant cuff as a symbol of strength and wisdom, was staged in a first decor for PAD by Paris creative agency Concept.
Christian Dior Couture alumni Marie Cabirou has built an international following for her innovative and elegant kinetic jewelry in just a few short years. Her work is an exploration of movement, which the designer says has been an obsession since childhood, with pieces like her stand-out King and Queen Wave rings rendered in warm rose gold. A highlight of her selection for PAD, is the supple Radiant choker in emeralds and sapphires, part of a collection that traces lines of light across the body using gemstones, here highlighting the collarbone just so.
At the 5 Octobre stand, I was met with a wall of rings, and indeed, designer Sophie Pfeffer has been further exploring her blend of new and old recently, by setting antique objects like cameos, cufflinks and buttons with a halo of diamonds, as modern rings. The technique also lends itself beautifully to these shoulder-grazing earrings, featuring citrines, antique cameos, topazes and even yellow labradorite, all stones frame-set to allow the light to pass through for maximum radiance.
Inspired by nature and her Spanish heritage, Luz Camino has pieces in the V&A Museum and has also shown at MAD, TEFAF and Christie’s Paris. Her work is characterized by movement and delicacy, and rendered using an easy, graceful language. The Freesia brooch pictured is the first time she has worked with porcelain on a representation of an open flower, alongside a pink quartz bud and smaller enamel buds on a spring-like green enamel stem.
Designers Michele Lamy and Loree Rodkin were inspired by the Chinese Zodiac to create this series of gold and diamond rings depicting the Monkey, Snake, Tiger, Pig and Rat. Worked in mixed metals, entwined bands of 18kt yellow and white gold, each piece is designed to be weighty and bold, crashing through notions of what ‘feminine’ jewelry should be. The Snake, pictured, represents humor, wit and creativity.
Carpenter’s Workshop Jewelry
Harnessing four generations of family skill, RJC-certified Mathon Paris jewels are handmade in Paris and bear the prestigious ‘Joaillerie de France’ label. The Cycle de la Lune line caught Pouzoullic’s eye for Second Pétale as soon as she saw them: “I was hooked,” she says, “the design, the color, the intriguing pattern all stimulated my interest.” The house works contemporary designs in vibrant color and has a particular following in Japan and the US.
Exhibited around the world, Paola Brussino’s jewelry showcases the versatility of innovative materials like titanium, zirconium and corian, based on her years of research. “Inventing and producing innovative jewelry pieces is imperative for me,” says the Venice Biennale alum (2017) of her work, which Pouzillic qualifies as “intriguing materials, combined with fabulous gems, that make the stones play in a new, different way, changing our perception.” Earrings made of silk-finish carbon and diamonds or mobile rings of pink sapphires, share aconite space with these titanium and diamond swirls.
Simona Tagliaferri’s one-of-a-kind, hand-painted rings attract a design-conscious clientele for their bright colors and intricate detail. Tagliaferri is a multi-disciplinary designer working across fashion, interiors and jewelry, and the Eden collection of rings is intended as a celebration of “love and the pleasures of life”, handcrafted in Italy. In hand-painted silver and white diamonds, the Moon Black Jungle ring is full of mysterious charm.
Designer Charlotte Romer explores mechanical forms using materials and colors that are not frequently used in jewelry to challenge notions of what is precious. With a focus on pure forms sculpted from industrial aluminum, her jewels are made end-to-end in Paris from anodizing to polishing. The Celeste ring is made of anodized and polished aluminum, accented with pink spinels and white diamonds to create two dazzling looks.
The 25th edition of PAD Paris is on March 29 – April 2, in the Tuileries Gardens, Paris.
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